Monthly Archives: November 2008

Mexican Restaurant Reigns Supreme

 

It’s new to me, and I’m glad to have received the recommendation for it.  I’m talking about El Compadre at 7408 W. Sunset Blvd, Hollywood, CA.  This is the second best Mexican restaurant I’ve been to in Los Angeles at any time, however it is the current reigning champion with the best Mexican food I’ve had being at the Cactus Taqueria on Vine St. If you’ve read my other article Restaurant, No More!, you’ll understand why it’s no longer rated numero uno with me.

 

There are a few things that must be tested at a Mexican restaurant before it can be truly judged.  For dinner tonight I enjoyed four of the seven.  El Compadre understands that salt is muy necessario para sabor (very necessary for flavor) and adds the perfect amount to their carne asada.  Most people speak too generally and say, “Fat is flavor.”  This is not true.  If you think this is true, buy pure lard, grab a giant spoon, scoop a heaping pile of lard into your mouth and enjoy.  What?  Not good?  How about taking pure olive oil and drinking it?  Some people taste olive oil like others taste wine.  Believe me, if you’re not ready for it, you may just regurgitate whatever is in your stomach at the time.  Fat brings flavors out for a series of reasons, but it is not flavor itself.

 

To really utilize fat in carne asada you have to leave only a tiny amount on the meat when you cook it.  And you have to make the fat crispy.  Read about the Maillard reaction and you’ll understand this more clearly.  Someone at El Compadre understands this.  The bit of fat left on the carne asada is crispy, like the fat in bacon after it’s been cooked perfectly.

 

El Compadre’s rice and refried beans are also good.  Both are cooked perfectly, and as fresh as they can be.  The refried beans are obviously not saved to become stale and re-refried.  The rice is not left sitting for too long and does not get hard because of it.  Both are seasoned well.

 

The carne asada plate with refried beans and rice were great.  The tacos themselves were topped with guacamole, salsa, onions and lettuce.  The refried beans are topped with melted cheese.  All of which go very well with each other.  The final accompaniment which is a necessary test of a Mexican restaurant is the salsa.

 

The spicy, red, thick, tomato based salsa is not hot for the sake of being hot.  It is blended very well with flavor and heat.  The salsa does not stand alone, but it works very well when pairing with the beans, rice, and tacos.

 

My final three tests will come soon.  I need to try the chicken, the chile verde, and the flower tortilla.  All of which are crucial for the sustainability of good Mexican food.  For those of you asking about the corn tortilla chips, they are perfectly crispy, but could use a little more salt.  For some, corn tortilla chips can make or break a Mexican restaurant, but for me, they are trivial.

 

Until next time El Compadre.

 

Restaurant, No More!

It’s hard to determine how many opportunities to give a restaurant to be good, especially when it was oh-so-good at one point.  There is a line, but the line is different for each restaurant.

 

The best carne asada I have had in Los Angeles was at Cactus Taqueria, on Vine, just below Hollywood Blvd.  I must have eaten there a dozen times and recommended it to a lot of people.  At some point I saw new faces in the kitchen, and the carne asada became sub-par.  After the integrity of the carne asada had been lost, I still ate there about four times – each time I hoped for the original, but it appeared I was chasing the white dragon. 

 

It’s hard to let go of those restaurants that once made you oh-so-happy, but going back time and time again just allows them to continuously let you down, and encourages their bad behavior.  You have to take a stand – but at what point? 

 

Making the decision not to go back is difficult because you have so many good memories of the place, and there’s always the question of whether or not it’ll go back to the way you remember it.  What if it does go back to the way you remember it and you’re not there to enjoy it?  That’s a scary possibility but that’s the risk you have to take.

 

There is no set limit on when to let go, but you can put a restaurant on your backburner for a couple of months to limit your disappointments and obvious desperation – and maybe, just maybe, if enough people boycott a restaurant long enough they’ll figure it out and you’ll get lucky when you decide to revisit it.

 

Now, there’s the question of what to do when there’s a restaurant that you constantly hear good recommendations for.  Try it out, and if it’s not that good, and not worth the price then say goodbye for the time being.  This one is not quite so difficult to let go of because you haven’t had a good experience.  The problem comes from people excusing your bad experience and calling you a quitter for not trying the food again.

 

I realize people begin to question their tastes when they hear so many good things about a place that didn’t offer a good experience when they tried it.  “What do you mean you had the Fettuccini Alfredo?  You’re supposed to have the Lasagna.”  That’s a good point.  Perhaps you should go back and have the Lasagna before you decidedly never go back; unless of course the Fettuccini Alfredo was really that terrible.

 

How many bad experiences do we have to have at a place before we have the right to a negative opinion about it?  Unfortunately, for each friend with an opposing opinion, you’ll always be wrong.  My absolute final straw for this is the lucky number three.  After three times you can forget what anybody has to say about a restaurant.  If it has failed you three times in a row, you are entitled to your decision to never return again.

 

 

Cheesecake Factory - Strike Three

There is no bigger mistake someone can make when plating pasta than to neglect to drain the water. This mistake wraps up the last attempt to find food worthy of eating at Cheesecake Factory.

Arclight Hotdogs

Disapointed by my last hotdog and without breakfast today, I turned to the concession stand at the ArcLight for sustenance. It’s not as if I went out of my way for a hotdog from the ArcLight, I am here to see Appaloosa and I was hungry. Now that I’ve written my preface, I have a short review about the hotdogs at the ArcLight: they are actually good. They are no Nathan’s hotdogs, but they are good.

Dodger Dogs

The first professional baseball game I have ever been to was tonight. I had the famous Dodger Dog — it was not fantastic, but it did hit the spot. I think food and beer are the real reasons to go to a baseball game — perhaps it’s the excuse to get loud and crazy. Good times…

CeFiore

CeFiore is just a fantastic frozen yogurt shop.  It makes you wonder why other frozen yogurt shops even try.  I just wanted to make a quick posting because I just realized they have bananas and it made my chocolate yogurt even better.

Animal

This review is of my dining experience at Animal on September 5th actually.  This is delayed quite a bit, but that’s because it was Animal that inspired me to create this blog.  Prior to eating at Animal, I had no ambitions of creating a blog.  I do enjoy writing, and eating, and I definitely enjoy writing about what I’ve eaten.  Unfortunately, I’m not published often enough to share my feelings about what I’ve eaten with those willing to read it.  With my amazement over Animal’s greatness, I have decided I need to share my experience — those publications which I can pitch have either already written about Animal, or because so many other Los Angeles publications have written about Animal, those I can pitch to won’t publish a simple review.

 

It came as a very welcomed surprise to me that the ex-Food Network duo, owned restaurant, Animal, is innovative and delicious.  Unfortunately, the dishes I’m going to explain probably won’t be on the menu any time soon.  I’m not sure how often dishes are recycled, but the menu changes every two days apparently — I haven’t put this to the test yet.  To me though, that’s very fortunate for those lucky enough to eat at Animal every two days, as the menu will never be stagnant.

 

There were four of us eating in all, and with limited stomach room we weren’t able to order everything on the menu each, so we shared a few dishes.  For starters, we shared amberjack cubes with citrus juices and sliced white nectarines.  The fish has a great texture.  It’s the first time I’ve had amberjack so I’m not sure if the citrus helped to firm up the texture or if the texture it held was not impacted by the citrus, but it has the perfect texture to be served semi-raw.  It didn’t quite seem like the citrus had made a profound effect on the fish’s raw state, but it seemed like it made a bit, so I’ll call it not quite ceviche and not quite crudo (sashimi).

 

At the same time that the amberjack arrived, the Basque (goat cheese) and sliced chorizo, baked together, also arrived.  The aroma of the Basque filled the entire restaurant so well it was almost palpable.  The dish was served with garlic baguette toast.  The chorizo flavor was lost inside the flavor of the Basque, but it was not to the detriment of the appetizer.  The baked Basque has a similar flavor to asiago cheese, but not enough for this to be an accurate description.  The texture was similar to a thick Alfredo sauce.

 

The entrées arrived moments after we finished our appetizers.  I ordered the flat iron steak with red wine veal reduction and braised oxtails.  The server asked me, “How would you like it cooked?” and of course I told him that I’d like it cooked to the chef’s desire.  To my satisfaction the steak had a crunchy exterior and perfectly buttery medium-rare interior.  Not to the disgrace of the other entrees by any means, but it was the highlight of the entrees.

 

To cut through the beef dishes, a lemon pollock was the perfect accompaniment shared at the table.  The dish was delicious, and the fish was cooked perfectly; not overcooked and not undercooked.

 

It’s odd to have so many impeccable dishes at one restaurant, but the beef ribs at Animal are some of the best I’ve ever had.  The ribs were also cooked perfectly, showcasing Vinny Dotolo’s technical skills, and the flavor showcased his palate.

 

Of course someone unbearably ordered a salad as an entree, but unlike most times when this is a highly unacceptable faux pas at a table where foodies are experiencing a new restaurant for the first time; this salad was quite exquisite and complex.  One friend joked that the salad must contain some form of seaweed that only grows at a one mile depth in the ocean in order for it to be on the menu.  It was funny at the time, and after we tasted the salad we realized it wasn’t a necessary attribute for the salad to be on the menu, or more importantly, at our table.

 

The night was finished off with an extremely rich bacon chocolate dessert.  It’s quite difficult to explain, but the rich chocolate and salty bacon bits were very good with each other.  The chocolate was shaped in the form of a bacon strip for added aesthetics.

 

Animal will be revisited soon, and hopefully it’ll continue to offer up the same excellence as my first experience.